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曾旅遊學法式料理 27歲主廚推創意鹹湯圓

27歲青年鍾政霖從業中、西餐十多年，他國立高雄餐旅大學畢業後，因曾到美式餐廳工作接觸西式餐飲，為了解西式料理文化，5年多前，他遊歷法國、荷蘭學習，返國並到台北市「松露之家」擔任主廚，今年9月落腳嘉義市開台北法式餐廳圓夢，將朝獲米其林指南星級評鑑肯定的目標邁進。

因曾在嘉義市承億文旅，鍾政霖創業選擇回嘉市，因應冬至、耶誕節跟新年假期的到來，今天於「桃城茶樣子」展示創意湯圓、伊比利豬、菲力牛排等打造的台北法式餐廳套餐，他說，西式料理的精神就是傳達在地文化，他於是發想將鴨肉、蔬果及芥菜心熬煮高湯，加上鴨肉糯米湯圓，讓西式料理也很有台灣味。

鍾政霖說，旅行時印象很深刻的就是各國的物價水準差異，如軟糖在法國要賣6歐元，荷蘭可能只賣1.8歐元，回國後就思考開一間屬於自己的餐廳，並用平易近人的價格，讓民眾可吃到精緻的法式料理。

自由時報

Think French cooking has to be fancy? That's only half the story.

My French mother-in-law, Madeleine, was everything I had learned French women were not: She was an unpretentious woman who wore a crisply pressed cotton housedress over thick stockings and sensible shoes every day I knew her, her wispy white hair in a boyish cut framing a clean-scrubbed face.

She was an unassuming, cheerful woman who worked next to her husband in their corner shop six days a week, raised four children on blind faith and old wives’ tales, and had a hot meal on the table at 1 p.m. every single day of the week.

But it was her cooking that threw my preconceived notions for a loop. Having moved to Paris after living in Philadelphia and New York, I arrived with a reverence for French cuisine that bordered on the religious. Restaurants and shops, magazines and cookbooks taught me that French food was the height of sophistication. It was delicate yet elaborate, refined and expensive — a performance art of finely julienned vegetables, sublime sauces, towering souffles.

When I moved to Paris in 1986 I found work as an interpreter in a professional cooking school, where I witnessed the rigid training, technical know-how and precision that went into each dish and pastry, from preparation to plating, confirming my opinion that French cuisine was complex and meticulous, impressive and intimidating.

But Madeleine’s cooking was far from all that. Her food was hearty and unadorned, yet so flavorful. No trendy or costly ingredients went into her one-pot dishes, no spices beyond salt and pepper, no sauces other than homemade bechamel, mayonnaise or vinaigrette whisked up quickly with a fork. There was little precision or delicacy: She would roughly chop leeks, potatoes, beets, shallots and carrots, staples of her cooking, with a wobbly, chipped paring knife, the bits of peel flicking all over the cheap vinyl tablecloth. Her recipes were estimates of classic dishes that were assembled and seasoned “au pif,” by taste and intuition.

Early in the morning she would prepare stews, leaving them to simmer on their own while she went back to work, or casseroles that she would pop into the oven between errands.

Ratatouille, veal blanquette, guinea fowl wrapped in cabbage, boeuf bourguignon and fondue weren’t fancy company cooking. They were economical, filling, easy everyday fare that, once assembled, basically cooked themselves, requiring no intricate technique to take time away from family and job.

When dessert was served beyond the cheese platter, it was plain poundcake, fruit pressed into a sweet pastry crust or rice pudding. Nothing was thrown away. Leftovers were always re-purposed into something else.

How was this French cuisine? I wondered. Le Bec Fin, Le Cirque, Lutèce, Le Bernardin, the pristine white traiteur in SoHo where the woman in a white blouse and black pencil skirt served tiny, perfectly roasted chickens for a splurge, the chic coq au vin we labored over for French Club — this was French cuisine!

But Madeleine’s cooking, I would discover, is just what I found in most French homes — more rustic or refined, depending on the household, but the same traditional dishes, the same casual, economical, uncomplicated approach. So how could what I had perceived as French cuisine back home be so different from what I was dining on with my new family and friends?

I dove into the history of French cuisine to understand where I had gone wrong.

To put it rather simply, French cuisine has developed across the centuries along two parallel paths: The first was what was cooked in royal kitchens for kings and queens, using spices and other ingredients that were rare and costly. Chefs continually pushed themselves to impress their patrons, developing sauces, cooking techniques and even new modes of presentation that expanded their repertoire.

This type of aristocratic cooking was innovative, exotic and elaborate. Foreign influences and ingredients brought back from expeditions around the world infiltrated their recipes and took much longer to trickle down to the common people. This opulent style of cooking has long defined French cuisine.

French home cooking, on the other hand, was a classic cuisine pauvre, humble yet hearty, developing at a much slower pace far from royal kitchens. Ingredients were locally accessible, often homegrown, and recipes were economically frugal and quick to execute, both by necessity. With no servants, the middle and lower classes tossed ingredients together and left them simmering while they started their workday, enjoying a hot, one-pot meal at noon that would fill them up and give them the energy to go back to work after their midday break.

Greensboro News & Record

法式料理「教皇」博古斯91歲辭世

逾半世紀來賦予法式料理定義，並將其推廣全球的法國名廚保羅．博古斯（Paul Bocuse）二十日辭世，享耆壽九十一歲。法國總統馬克宏讚揚他是「改造法國美食的神話般人物，法國各地的廚師們正在他們的廚房內哭泣。」

被譽為法國料理「教皇」的博古斯，一九七○年代以「新潮烹調（Nouvelle Cuisine）」革命撼動美食界，他創造明星主廚的概念，也是第一位集烹飪藝術與商業策略於一身的名廚；他以自身形象及其佳餚為品牌，打造遍布全球的餐飲帝國。法國內政部長柯隆布推文說：「保羅先生就是法國。既簡潔又寬宏，卓越又兼具生活藝術。」

保持米其林三星逾50年法國唯一一人

博古斯是法國唯一保持米其林三星主廚聲譽逾五十年的名廚，他的餐廳、即其父設於里昂附近的村落旅館「科隆日橋客棧（L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges）」自一九六五年贏得三星評等以來，未曾掉過星。米其林的對手指南「高特米魯（Gault-Millau）」一九八九年封他是「世紀名廚」，二○一一年美國烹飪學院再度授予該榮銜。

博古斯的廚師世家可追溯至一七六五年，他十六歲開始當學徒。二○一一年他受訪時說，他睡在出生時的房間，「不過，我換了床單。」在他的「客棧」餐廳，一些招牌名菜也維持數十年不變。他在病逝故鄉前，飽受帕金森氏症之苦。

博古斯曾說：「美食與性愛有許多共同點，我愛女人。」一九四六年他與蕾夢德（Raymonde）結婚後，至少擁有兩名情婦，其中蕾孟（Raymone）與他的兒子傑洛姆也是廚師，而派翠西亞（Patricia）四十年來掌管他的形象。他說：「一個共度午餐、一個共度午茶，另一個共度晚餐。」他說，他與元配吃午餐、與蕾孟消磨午後時光，帶派翠西亞出差旅行。

博古斯是法國一九七○年代「新潮烹調」的趨力，他捨油膩味濃的醬汁，代之以清新鮮美的原料、柔和的美學及創意。該詞是高特米魯所創，用以形容博古斯為協和號客機一九六九年處女航所預備的佳餚。儘管如此，博古斯說：「我熱愛奶油、鮮奶油與美酒。奶油無可取代！」

資料來源:自由時報

不甩禁愛令歐陽娜娜深夜約會劉昊然被活逮

歐陽娜娜日前歡度17歲生日，她的父親、台北市議員歐陽龍原本說她18歲就能談戀愛，孰料竟把「禁愛令」延到20歲，而歐陽娜娜似乎不太甩父親，還被媒體逮到在北京深夜密會緋聞男友劉昊然。台北約會餐廳

《新浪娛樂》報導，有中國媒體日昨拍到歐陽娜娜在助理及媽媽傅娟陪同下，現身北京某攝影棚進行拍攝工作，當晚深夜結束工作後，歐陽娜娜與媽媽同赴某料理店吃飯，沒想到卻被網友直擊母女倆與劉昊然驚喜同框。

網友描述，當時在歐陽娜娜母女身邊，有個高高帥帥男生，他雖用口罩和帽子遮臉，但身高和身材都酷似劉昊然。根據之前網友偶遇劉昊然截圖，網友拍下該男子的口罩帽子還有背包上的毛球，都和劉昊然一模一樣。媒體大膽預測，和歐陽娜娜母女共進晚餐的，應該是劉昊然本人無誤，因而被中國媒體大酸：「雖然有未來丈母娘作陪，但2人公開約會應該是事實。」台北約會餐廳

資料來源:自由時報

日安！小鮮肉豐盛早午餐

台北W飯店10樓the kitchen table西餐廳推出「日安！小鮮肉」早午餐，不僅吃得到頂級海「鮮」及美味多汁的碳烤「肉」品，還能在「血腥瑪莉吧」喝到新鮮食材調製獨特飲品，迎接充滿活力的週末。不必太早起，睡飽再與親友一起到the kitchen table享受豐盛的早午餐。法國餐廳

此外，the kitchen table西餐廳的「奢華海鮮炒蛋吧」，有現點現做的波士頓龍蝦或阿拉斯加帝王蟹炒蛋，搭配魚子醬及松露柑橘鮮奶油，呈現優雅的香氣和酸甜的滋味；「海鮮冷食區」則推出法國生蠔、帝王蟹腳等食材，另有經典美食熟食區、海陸大餐燒烤區、思慕昔吧與夢幻甜點；桌邊服務更推出特色餐點，如「鴨肝鬆餅佐紅酒莓果醬汁」。值得一提的是，「血腥瑪莉吧」，融入歐美國家將其為解宿醉良方的概念，將此飲品加入「日安！小鮮肉」早午餐中，消費者可以3款基本調飲，自行加入鮮蝦、生蠔、芹菜、培根等各式食材，打造獨特的提神飲品。法國餐廳

至於富邦集團旗下的Folio Daan Taipei 富藝旅館內餐廳「Port23」，是捷運大安站周邊許多商務客的最愛；Port23本季推出全新春季菜色，由新任主廚簡玉銘操刀，融合Port23輕鬆的用餐氛圍，將義法餐酒館料理精神帶入，推出多道包含義大利麵、燉飯及主菜、開胃菜。「青醬野菇燉飯佐香料烤透抽」以青醬搭配先煎後烤的Q彈烤透抽，完整保留海味鮮甜；搭配多樣時令蔬菜的「寬扁麵佐雞肉起司奶油醬汁」，奶醬汁清爽不黏膩，適合春天味蕾。開胃菜「燻鮭魚塔町佐黑橄欖醬、酸奶醬」以法國麵包作為底座，堆疊黑橄欖醬、燻鮭魚、酸奶醬等，口感清爽。主廚招牌菜中的「美國肋眼牛排」選用8盎司Choice等級牛肉，粉紅肉質富油花；「香煎紫蘇梅雞肉捲佐紅酒醬汁」更將紫蘇梅入菜，搭配紅酒醬汁，令人胃口大開，在在展現輕鬆的家常。法國餐廳

資料來源:自由時報